Rocky Beach in Puerto AyoraJust getting to the Galapagos is an adventure. We had an international flight to Quito, a trip through customs, another flight to Guayaquil, a flight to Isla Baltra, a screening to get into Isla Santa Cruz, a ferry ride, and a bus ride to finally make it to Puerta Ayora. One of the first things we did when we finally reached the city was go for a walk around town, just to take it all in.We got there on a Monday in June, and the town seemed mostly sleepy. There weren't a lot of tourists — probably because they stay on cruise ships. But restaurants, travel agencies and souvenir shops featuring local art and handmade items line the streets and it's clear that the people here make their living from tourism. In fact, everything is related to tourism. We stayed clear of the stores at first and instead explored the alley ways that led to the water and the rocky coast. Wildlife was every there — pelicans, iguanas, sea lions, and crabs all shared space among the rocks. (Though sea lions also ventured farther into town in favor of bigger spaces to rest.)
Galapagos Islands Marine IguanaA photograph of a young marine iguana relaxing in Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz. Marine iguanas are as common in the Galapagos as mainland squirrels are in the States; they do not run or hide from people. The Galapagos marine iguanas are the only lizard in the world that rest and live on the rocky beaches of the islands but feed in the sea, so you might see them in the water when you're swimming or snorkeling. The blacker the iguana, the younger they are; with age comes color.
Galapagos, Past and Present. A mural painted on a shopping market wall in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island depicts events from the island's rich history. Originally discovered by Fray Tomas de Berlanga by accident when his ship was blown off course, the islands were considered a terrible place to try to live. de Berlanga named the islands after the giant tortoises that live there, but felt the islands were unhabitable by people. For centuries, pirates, whalers and prisoners tried to make Galapagos their home, but never very successfully. Sailers captured tortoises by the thousands to use as meat, but the islands largely remained unclaimed until Ecuador claimed them in 1832 and largely unsettled until the 1950s. Ecuador made the Galapagos a national park in 1959, and tourism began in the 1960s. Almost everyone today who lives in the Galapagos gets around by scooter. But taxi drivers all drive trucks; a cab ride anywhere in town costs just $2.
Tortuga Bay SurferI'd heard about the whitesand beaches of Tortuga Bay from Internet searches preparing for my trip, but I hadn't realized how much of a hike it is just getting to Tortuga Bay. It's on the outskirts of town, so the best way to get there is via cab, and then there's a 1.5-mile hike along a boardwalk to get to the beach. There are signs warning visitors against swimming on the first half of the beach, as the current there is very strong, but we still saw surfers enjoying the waves.
Black Rocks & White SandThe black rocks and white sand of Tortuga Bay are absolutely stunning. Pelicans, birds, iguanas and crabs are abundant here.
Tortuga Bay The crystal clear waters of Tortuga Bay reflect the cloudy blue sky from overhead.
Tortuga Bay BoyA young boy investigates the sand on Tortuga Bay, his father nearby.